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Bartop Arcade

Bartop Arcade Assembly






Display – 8″ 1024×768 display and driver board
Panels – Laser cut 3mm acrylic
Joystick – 8-way arcade joystick
Buttons – 6x 30mm + 2x 24mm arcade buttons
Audio – 3W+3W amplifier and speakers
Size – 25.5 x 24 x 27 cm

Buy Bartop Arcade

1. Assembly Guide

Start with adding 4xM2.5 standoffs and nuts to the Raspberry PI.

Secure it to the bottom panel using 4xM2.5 screws.


Secure the USB encoder using  M2 screws and nuts.


Secure the speakers to the side panels with 8 M3 screws and nuts.

Assemble base and side panels. Place the side panels with the longest sides facing down as shown in the images below.

Use 4 M3 screws and nuts to secure it.

The screen will come already assembled with the front panel. Put the screen panel in place and secure it with 4 M3 screws and nuts.

You can put the arcade back in upright position, it will make holding the screen nuts in place easier.

Next step is adding the control panel. Secure the joystick with 4 M3x12 screws, nuts and washers.

Add the 6 30mm buttons to the control panel.

Add the crimp wires.

Polarity doesn’t matter for buttons, you can connect them either way. Make sure to connect the joystick in the correct way(shown in the image below), otherwise only one direction will work.

Add the two 24mm buttons to the side panels and connect them with crimp wires.

Place the control panel in front of the arcade and connect all wires as shown in the images below.

Connect the USB encoder to the Raspberry Pi with the 4-pin JST to USB cabel.

Add the middle panel.

Put the control panel in place and secure it with 2 M3 screws and nuts.

Add the small front panel and secure it with 3 M3 screws and nuts.

Add the small top panel and secure it in place with 2 M3 screws and nuts.

Connect the driver board power to one of the Raspberry Pi USB ports.

Connect the display control cable.

Next connect amplifier and display control to the back panel.

Screw the amplifier in place and add the plastis cap.

Secure the display control with 1 M3 screws and nut.

Connect display control, 3.5mm audio jack and speakers.

Connect power for amplifier to Raspberry Pi 3.3V and Ground. Make sure you don’t reverse the polarity.

+ and – are marked on the amplifier silk screen. Connect + to 3.3V and – to GND.

Connect the HDMI cable

You can tidy up the wires before closing the back panel.

To fit the back panel loosen up the top and bottom screws on both sides or remove them if you struggle.

First insert only one of the sides and push until everything fits together.

Add the rest of the screws.

2. Display Settings

Use the remote or display control to set the source to HDMI.

After installing RetroPie on an SD card edit  config.txt and add or uncomment (remove the # before) the following lines:





3. Configure Input

Is the same as configuring the DIY FightStick


Whac-A-Button With Arduino

Whac-A-Mole like game with Arduino and Arcade style LED buttons.

This is a very simple version of the Whac-a-mole game, where a button lights up and waits for the player to hit it. If the correct button is hit the score is updated and a new button lights up. The player is not punished if they hit the wrong button. Only one button lights up at a time. Time to hit the button reduces each game cycle.


Kit includes:
5 LED buttons
All required wires, screws and nuts
Arduino nano
Laser cut acrylic panels
4 digit 7 Segment display TM1637
USB cable



Start by adding the display and buttons. Make sure the display pins are pointing inwards, the colour arrangement of the buttons is up to you.


Use 2 screws to secure the display in place.

Keep all buttons in the same orientation – it will make wiring easier.

Wiring might look messy but it’s very simple.

Connect all grounds together using the daisy chain 2.8mm crimp connectors. Again if all buttons are in the same orientation it will be much easier. The end with a jumper wire connect to the Arduino GND.

arduino whac-a-mole-wiring

Now connect the rest of the pins as shown in the images below:

Connect the display.

Display –  Arduino

CLK    –   Pin 8

DIO     –   Pin 7

GND    –  GND

5V        –  5V

Arduino TM1637 display

Use jumper wires to connect all LEDs to the Arduino pins.

LED1 – Pin9

LED2 – Pin10

LED3 – Pin11

LED4 – Pin12

LED5 – Pin13

Now use jumper wires to connect all buttons to the Arduino pins. Make sure that if you’ve used for example the green button for LED1 you’ll have to use it as Button1 as well.

Button1 – Pin2

Button2 – Pin3

Button3 – Pin4

Button4 – Pin5

Button5 – Pin6

Tape the wires together to keep them from disconnecting.

Once everything is connected test if it works before assembling the panels.


Download the code from GitHub – Whack-a-button and upload it to the Arduino.

At start the game will be in waiting for input where all LEDs will be flashing until one of the buttons is pressed and that’s when the game will start. After the game ends it will return to the waiting for input state while still showing the latest score and it will stay like that until a button is pressed and new game starts.

After you’ve checked that everything is connected correctly assemble the rest of the panels.

Leave the right panel last as that’s where the usb cable will be coming out.


Enjoy your play.


Buy Arduino Whac-A-Button Kitarduino-whac-a-button

Configure FightStick

RetroPie button mapping and hotkeys

On first boot , you will be welcomed with the following screen- this menu will configure your controls for both Emulationstation and RetroArch Emulators.


If this is not the first start and you already have configured controller press the start button and choose configure input.


Hold down any button on the FightStick and the name will appear at the bottom and then open up into a configuration menu.


Follow the on-screen instructions to configure the FightStick – once you configure all buttons just hold down any button to skip the unused ones. There are 6 action and 2 menu buttons and the you can map them as an SNES controller. When you get to OK press the button you have configured as “A”. Use SELECT for default hotkey.


Retropie fightstick mapping and hotkeys


Assembling the DIY Fightstick

Shop RetroPie FightStick

retropie fightstick assembly usb encoder


retropie fightstick assembly panels

retropie fightstick assembly 3


retropie fightstick assembly 4

retropie fightstick assembly 5

retropie fightstick assembly 5a1

Polarity doesn’t matter for buttons, you can connect them either way. Make sure to connect the joystick in the correct way(shown in the image below), otherwise only one direction will work.

retropie fightstick assembly 5a

retropie fightstick assembly 5b

retropie fightstick assembly 6

retropie fightstick assembly 6a

retropie fightstick assembly 6b

retropie fightstick assembly 7

retropie fightstick assembly 8

retropie fightstick assembly 8a